Category Archives: Lager

Authenticity, History, International, Lager, Neolocalism

Welcome to Wrexham (Lager)

2 Comments

I have a deep passion for football—known as soccer here in the United States. Most of that passion is devoted to Glasgow Celtic, the Scottish club I’ve supported avidly since I was seven years old. Thanks to the internet and cable television, I can keep up not only with my team but with the sport more broadly. Beyond watching matches, I occasionally enjoy football documentaries. Two of my favorites are Sunderland ’Til I Die and Welcome to Wrexham. Both series chronicle the challenges faced by the men’s teams of Sunderland and Wrexham as they strive to win enough points to climb the tiers of English football. Interestingly, although Wrexham is based in Wales, its team competes in the English Football League—a legacy of the early 20th century when no Welsh league existed. As a result, Wrexham, along with Cardiff City, Newport County, and Swansea City, was invited to play in English League.

Of the two documentaries, Welcome to Wrexham has received the most publicity. This is in large thanks to the fact that, back in 2021 actors Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney became the co-owners of the club. Both have a starring role in Welcome to Wrexham. The takeover has been hugely successful and over a four-year period (2021-2025) the club gained three successive promotions and moved from the fifth to the second tier of the English football pyramid.

But it’s not just the local football team that Reynolds and McElhenney invested in. They also, along with the Allyn family of Skaneateles, NY, became majority co-owners of a local brewery, Wrexham Lager Beer Co., in 2024. It is a brewery with an interesting history. It was founded In 1882 by two German Immigrants, Ivan Levinstein and Otto Isler. During the 1900s, Wrexham Lager was exported worldwide, finding markets in places as far away as Australia, India, and the Americas. Such was the popularity of Wrexham Lager during the early 20th century that it was available to passengers on the ill-fated Titanic.

In 2000, due to declining demand, the brewery closed its doors. The then owners of the brewery, Carlsberg-Tetley, continued to produce the Lager at a brewery in Blackburn in England. They did so until 2002 when production ceased completely. In 2011, a local family, the Roberts, decided to revive the brand and brew Wrexham Lager in a newly constructed microbrewery. Along with Reynolds, McElhenny, and the Allyn family, the Roberts remain co-owners of the brewery.

Long before Reynolds’s and McElhenney invested in either the football club or the brewery there was a strong connection between the club’s fans and Wrexham Lager. It was, indeed, a staple brew for many Wrexham fans, so much so that the Lager got its own chant. To the tune of the Welsh hymn Bread of Heaven, the chant goes:

Wrexham Lager, Wrexham Lager

Feed me ’til I want no more (want no more),

Feed me ’til I want no more..

As both a football fan and a beer enthusiast, I was familiar with Wrexham Lager and its connection to the local football club—though I had never actually tasted it. That changed a few weeks ago. While browsing the beer section of the dinner menu at a local restaurant, I noticed Wrexham Lager listed among the offerings. At $9 a can, it was pricier than the other craft beers on the menu—likely due in part to the fact that it had traveled all the way from Wrexham to Toledo. Or so I thought.

As I examined the can (as I do with most canned beers that I have for the first time) I noticed that the beer inside was not brewed in Wrexham, but in Normal, IL at Destihl Brewery. Curious about Destihl I visited their website. Established in 2007, in addition to their own line of beers Destihl brew a number of what they call ‘partner beers’. Included in these is Wrexham Lager.

I have to admit, I was a little disappointed by this discovery. One of the things I value most about craft beer is its local character—the way it reflects and connects to a specific place. This sense of place has been widely studied by several geographers, including Scott Taylor Jr. and Robin DiPietro of the University of Houston and the University of South Carolina-Columbia, respectively. In their work, they explore the concept of place-based brands—brands that are defined by their geographic origin and cannot be authentically reproduced elsewhere because of the unique qualities tied to that location.

With respect to Wrexham Lager, the question is simple – can Wrexham Lager be brewed anywhere except Wrexham. Martyn Jones who represented the people of Wrexham as a member of the British Parliament between 1987 and 2010 doesn’t think so. He put it very simply “It isn’t Wrexham Lager if it isn’t brewed in Wrexham.” Before becoming a Member of Parliament, Jones worked in the Wrexham Lager Brewery. In 2020 (when the Lager was being brewed in Blackburn) Jones spearheaded a campaign to bring production of the famous Lager back to Wrexham.

The statement by Martyn Jones gets right to the heart of the question of authenticity. Is the Wrexham Lager that is brewed in Illinois authentic? One might argue that as long as the Lager is brewed using the same ingredients and the same recipe then what’s the big deal? Others, such as Martyn Jones, would suggest otherwise and would argue that where Wrexham Lager is brewed is a big deal.

This is not the first time the issue has been raised with respect to the brewing industry. Back in 2016, a judge found in favor of the plaintiff in a class action lawsuit filed against Anheuser-Busch (A-B). The lawsuit revolved around Beck’s beer. While ostensibly a German beer, Beck’s was owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev. In addition to being brewed in Bremen Germany, since 2012 Beck’s had been brewed in St. Louis, MO. The lawsuit alleged that Anheuser-Busch “misrepresented to consumers that Beck’s Beer is brewed in and imported from Germany”. Plaintiffs alleged “that these beers are in fact domestically brewed but priced as a premium imported beer”.

In a case study of a Scottish craft brewery, David Brown of Heriot-Watt University (UK) examines the challenges the owner faces as he considers expanding beer distribution into England and Wales. Many of the brewery’s products feature names inspired by local landmarks and Scottish idioms, with labels referencing regional issues—such as a nearby nudist colony. As they enter more geographically distant markets, a key question arises: should these local references remain unchanged, or be adapted to make the brand more accessible and transparent to non-local consumers? Selling a beer with a strong sense of place beyond its home region can presents some unique branding challenges.

Wrexham Lager is brewed at Destihl in Normal, IL

The story of Wrexham Lager—and its connection to football, community, and identity—highlights a broader debate about authenticity in an increasingly globalized world. While recipes and branding can travel, the sense of place that defines a product is harder to replicate. For some, brewing Wrexham Lager in Illinois may seem inconsequential, but for others, like Martyn Jones, it strikes at the heart of what makes the beer unique. This tension between tradition and practicality is not new; it echoes similar controversies across the brewing industry, where geographic origin remains a powerful marker of authenticity. Ultimately, whether in football or beer, place matters—not just as a backdrop, but as an integral part of the story we tell and the experiences we value.

Further Reading:

Brown, David M. 2023. Managing neolocalism outside the locale in real ale and craft beer entrepreneurship: The case of Ben Lui Brewery. The International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Innovation.

Taylor, Scott, Jr and Robin DiPietro. 2020. Assessing consumer perceptions of neolocalism: Making a case for microbreweries as place-based brands. Cornell Hospitality Quarterly, Volume 61, Numbr 2, Pages 183–198.

Beer Styles, Lager

I’ll Have a Lager Please

Leave a comment

Lager is the most popular type of beer in the world. Walk into any bar in any country and the chances of Lager not being available is almost zero. This includes the United States, where Lager accounts for approximately 87% of beer sales. Almost all of the world’s best-known beers are Lagers – think Budwesier, Modelo, Heineken, Molson, and Stella Artois. A noteworthy exception is Guinness. This highly popular brew is an Ale.

The popularity of Lager in the United States can be traced back to the second half of the 19th century when large numbers of German immigrants arrived in the United States. It was these immigrants who introduced Lager to the American beer drinker. Prior to their arrival, Ales, brought here by the British, had dominated the American brewing landscape.

But what is the difference between an Ale and a Lager? Well, to start with, they are brewed using different types of yeast. Generally speaking, Lagers are brewed using ‘bottom-fermenting’ yeasts (Saccharomyces pastorianus), while Ales are brewed using ‘top-fermenting’ yeasts (Saccharomyces cerevisiae). They are also fermented at different temperatures, with Ale yeast’s fermenting between 60°F to 75°F and Lager yeasts fermenting between 45°F to 55°F. Lagers also take longer to produce. It can take 7-8 weeks to brew a Lager, compared with 2-3 weeks for an Ale. Indeed, the word “Lager” is derived from the German word lagern, which means “to store” and refers to the long cold-conditioning phase that follows primary fermentation. Not surprisingly, the final products tend to have different characteristics. Lagers are more carbonated and can be best described as crisp, smooth, and mellow. Ales, in comparison, are more robust, fruity, and aromatic. If they are IPAs, they can also be quite bitter.

In discussing Lagers and Ales, it important to distinguish between types and styles of beer. Lagers and Ales are types of beer. Think of Lagers and Ales as an umbrella, beneath which exist dozens of different styles and sub-styles. Indeed, the Brewers Association recognizes over a hundred different styles/sub-styles of beer. Examples of Ale styles include India Pale Ale, Scotch Ale, and Oatmeal Stout, while examples of Lagers include American Light Lager, Vienna Lager, and Munich-style Dunkel.

While Lager is the most popular type of beer among beer drinkers generally, this is not the case when it comes to craft beer drinkers. In the world of craft beer India Pale Ale (IPA) is king. A recent report published by the Brewers Association looked at regional variations in the popularity of different craft beer styles. It reported that sales of IPA ranged from 45% of all craft beer sold in the Midwest to 62% in the Northeast. Furthermore, the same report showed that the popularity of IPA has been growing since 2020. At some craft breweries, IPAs may account for 90% of the beer they produce.

According to Matt Westfall owner and brewer of Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, CT, in the early days of the craft brewing movement, IPAs allowed craft breweries to really differentiate themselves from mass producers such as Anheuser-Busch. Craft Lagers were frequently “disparaged by craft beer aficionados for being too akin to mainstream beers”.

In recent years, there have been a number of stories in the media suggesting that Lagers are becoming more popular among craft beer drinkers. Jamal Robinson, Sales and Marketing Director at New England Brewing Co. in Woodbridge, CT credits this to the fact that many craft beer drinkers have palate fatigue. An over-indulgence in big, bold, hoppy, IPAs has left some craft beer drinkers seeking something more crisp, more mellow, and more sessionable (i.e., lower ABVs) beers. Jim Vorel, writing for Paste Magazine, believes that the increasing availability of craft lager “represents a desperately needed (and much appreciated) alternative to the other styles that command peak popularity at most taprooms”. According to Malika Wichner, writing for Backbar Academy, Lagers “are not only easy to drink but also retain a depth of flavor that appeals to a wide range of palates, making them ideal for both casual settings and larger social gatherings where a more approachable beer is desired.” Wichner, identifies the growing popularity of craft Lagers as one of eight beer industry trends to look out for in 2025. And it’s not just in the United States that craft Lager is gaining popularity. A similar trend has been identified in Australia, Canada, and the United Kingdom. Craft Lagers can also serve as gateway beer for people who typically drink mass produced Lagers. Justin Jacobson of Whitchcraft Beer Store in Austin, TX suggests that craft Lagers, “serve as a good launching pad into craft beer” for drinkers of mainstream beers (which are predominantly Lagers).

I was reminded of the growing popularity of craft Lagers on a recent trip to New Orleans, LA. While there I paid a visit to Brewery Saint X. As I perused their beer menu, I was struck by the number of Lagers on offer. Of the sixteen beers on their menu, six were Lagers. In addition to two different Helles Lagers, there was a Schankbier Lager, a Rice Lager, a Kellerbier Lager, and a Märzen Lager. I opted for one of the Helles Lagers (Struttin’) and a Rice Lager. While it is not uncommon to see a Helles Lager on the menu at craft breweries, Rice Lagers are somewhat rarer, but there is certainly a market for them. According to Jim Vorel, the range of Lagers that I found at Brewery Saint X is a relatively recent phenomenon. How recent? Walk into most breweries as recently as 2019 and Vorel suggests that the choice of Lagers was quite limited.

The beer menu at Brewery Saint X in New Orleans, LA

Brewery Saint X (established in 2023) is part of Neighborhood Restaurant Group (NRG), based in Alexandria, VA. NRG, is a collective of hospitality venues. Greg Engert is NRG’s Beer Director. As someone who works in the brewing industry Engert says that he is “drawn not only to the innovative spirit of brewing, but also to its history. While we’re excited to showcase a wide array of styles at Saint X, it’s the classics that we’re most interested in honoring.” And when it comes to beer, there is nothing more classic than German Lagers. Indeed, on their website, the brewery mentions they have “a particular reverence for the classics, from German and Czech-inspired lagers to British cask-style beers.”

I enjoyed a Rice Lager at Brewery Saint X

There are, of course, some disincentives to brewing Lagers. Due to the length of time it takes to brew them (6-8 weeks), they take up valuable fermentation tank space that could be used for producing Ales. Thus, brewing a Lager comes with high opportunity costs. Lagers are also more challenging to brew. When brewing an Ale, it is much easier to hide imperfections thanks to the heavy use of hops and other ingredients such as coffee, peanut butter etc. In the case of Lagers, any imperfections are easily detectable. As noted by Aaron Baker, Senior Marketing manager at Oskar Blues Brewery, Lagers are “the hardest to perfect” as there are “a lot more things that can go wrong during the brewing process.”

There are also some hurdles with respect to consumer perception that have to be overcome. Much of the impetus for the craft beer movement was its opposition to the mass producers and their homogeneous, uninspiring, Lagers. Rightly or wrongly, Lagers were associated with low-quality, bland tasting beer. And while they were more time-consuming and, in many ways, more challenging to produce, some consumers balked at the idea of paying premium price for a beer style that Anheuser-Busch were offering at half the price. While brewing craft Lagers may sound mundane to some, there is still room for pushing the envelope when it comes to experimentation and creativity. For example, Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers in Framingham. MA produce Hoponious Union, a West Coast Style Hoppy Lager, while Providence Brewing Co. of Providence, RI brew a hazy New England India Pale Lager. At the same time, some breweries go to considerable lengths to brew an authentic Lager. For example, as highlighted on the website of Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers:

“To create authentic German-style flavors, Jack’s Abby brews with traditional ingredients and techniques. The Jack’s Abby brewing team travels to Germany every year to procure German hops and malt from small family run operations in Bavaria. The brewers use old-world brewing techniques of decoction and spunding to recreate historical lagers.”

My early beer drinking days in my native Scotland were dominated by Lagers. Lagers made by breweries such as Tennant’s were ubiquitous and the beer of choice of many beer drinkers in Scotland. Today, thanks in large extent to the craft beer revolution, my palate has evolved, and I enjoy a wide variety of beer styles – Brown Ales, Hazy IPAs, Sours etc. I do still enjoy Lagers, however, especially during the warmer months of summer. So, I am pleased to see more breweries brewing more Lager.

Further Reading:

Casey, Gregory Paul. 2022. The Inspiring and Surprising History and Legacy of American Lager Beer. Master Brewers Association Technical Quarterly, Volume 57, Issue 1, Pages 9-18.