Category Archives: Neolocalism

Protecting the Human Touch: AI, Art, and the Craft Beer Community

Most of us have at least some familiarity with Artificial Intelligence -more commonly known as AI. As a university professor, I encounter it frequently as I try to determine whether, and in what ways, my students are using AI to complete their course assignments. When I set out to find a good definition of AI for this blog, I decided to turn to AI itself. According to Copilot (an AI‑powered assistant designed to enhance productivity and streamline workflow) AI is “a field of computer science focused on creating machines and software capable of performing tasks that typically require human intelligence. These tasks include things like learning from data, recognizing patterns, understanding language, solving problems, and making decisions.”

One of the major concerns surrounding AI is its potential impact on jobs currently performed by humans. Will people become expendable as AI systems advance? Which job roles or tasks within this industry are most vulnerable to AI? Are certain demographics (age, education level) more at risk of job loss? Are certain regions of the country more vulnerable to job disruption due to concentration of AI-impacted industries and job tasks? A quick search online reveals countless academic studies and media articles wrestling with these and other questions. When I typed “impact of artificial intelligence on jobs” into Google Scholar, it returned more than 2.4 million results.

However, this blog entry is not focused on AI’s broader implications for employment. Instead, it explores a more specific question: how might AI affect some of the creative professionals working within the brewing industry?

My interest in this question was sparked by an article I read on the BBC website last week (the BBC has recently introduced a paywall, but you can still access the article here). The piece described how Simon Hubbard, who runs the Mean Eyed Cat in Newcastle, England, has become increasingly aware of the growing use of AI in designing items such as bottle labels and pump clips (the small signs attached to beer hand‑pulls that let customers know what’s being served). Partnering with another bar, the Free Trade Inn in nearby Ouseburn, Hubbard has launched a campaign refusing to carry any items or products whose design elements have utilized AI

Hubbard kicked off the campaign on the bar’s Instagram account with an unapologetically blunt message, proclaiming that “AI art looks SH*T.” He criticizes it as “overly polished” and “overly perfect.” His frustration is aimed squarely at breweries turning to AI for their design work. Interestingly, it seems to be the older, more established breweries that have begun relying on AI to assist with their creative processes. Hubbard urges brewers to create their own artwork rather than relying on automated tools, delivering his message in in his typically direct, no‑nonsense style. – “Do it yourself, you lazy piece of shit!” implores Hubbard on his brewery’s Instagram post.

Simon Hubbard did not hold back in his attack on AI generated art in these Instagram posts

A key concern for Hubbard and others is that AI could displace work traditionally done by local creatives. Not everyone shares this worry, however. In Durham, England, artist Ashley Willerton believes there will always be a core group of pubs and breweries committed to supporting local designers. A lingering question, however, is whether that core will be large enough to sustain meaningful opportunities for creatives such as him. While acknowledging that AI might produce designs that are technically more refined, Willerton argues that such work lacks the human touch—and the deeper meaning—that comes from art created by people rather than algorithms.

Reece Hugill, owner of Donzoko Brewery in Newcastle, England, highlights another important dimension of working with local artists: for him, it’s about being part of the local community and ensuring that money remains within it, rather than being siphoned off into the coffers of some distant company.

Hugill’s observation is particularly compelling because it aligns with the broader neolocalism movement, a trend in which craft breweries play a prominent role. Geographer James Shortridge defined neolocalism in 1996 as the “deliberate seeking out of regional lore and local attachment by residents (new and old) as a delayed reaction to the destruction of modern America of traditional bonds to community and family.” Put simply, many Americans are actively looking for products that express a tangible connection to the communities in which they live. The popularity of farmers markets, independent bookstores and coffee shops are a testimony to people’s desire to support local producers.

Independently owned craft breweries – often operated by people who live just a few miles away—also meet this desire by offering a product whose identity is deeply rooted in place. While ingredients such as yeast, hops, or malted grains may come from outside the region, the water and, more importantly, the brewer’s creativity remain distinctly local.

One of my favorite breweries here in Toledo is Quenched & Tempered Brewing Co. (Q&T). The brewery is owned by Ali Drozdowicz, while her husband, Alex, serves as the Master Brewer. Along with enjoying their excellent beer, I especially appreciate the distinctive labels on their cans – each one designed by hand, in‑house, by Ali herself. On the brewery’s website, Ali highlights Q&T’s dedication to supporting local creatives, noting that “we support other small businesses and creatives because a strong community benefits everyone.” Another Toledo brewery, Earnest Brew Works, partners with Jason Sanderson, a local artist who designs and creates the chalkboard-style beer menus displayed behind the bars in its taprooms.

Some of the beautiful artwork by Ali Drozdowicz of Quenched & Tempered Brewing Co.
The chalkboard-style menus at Earnest Brew Works, designed by Jason Sanderson

In response to the growing influence of AI, there are increasing calls for a universally recognized label that identifies products and services as “human-made.” Terms such as “Human-made” and “AI-free” are already appearing in connection with films, books, and websites. In many ways, these emerging labels mirror the Independent Craft Brewer seal created and promoted by the Brewers Association.

The independent craft beer seal used by craft breweries to identify themselves as authentic craft producers

Dr. Amna Khan, a consumer behavior and retailing expert at Manchester Metropolitan University, argues that “a universal definition is essential to build trust, clarification, and confidence.” Yet while many consumers would welcome such a label, developing one is far from straightforward. Key challenges include establishing a shared definition of what “AI-free” actually means. Some view it as a continuum rather than a binary concept.

The UK government is currently considering legislation that would require clear labeling of AI‑generated content. The discussion is complex, with Technology Minister Liz Kendall emphasizing the need to balance protections for creative industries with the importance of allowing the AI sector to continue innovating.

As debates about artificial intelligence continue to unfold across different economic sectors – from higher education to manufacturing to the creative industries – the brewing world provides a compelling microcosm of the larger tensions at play. What’s happening in Newcastle, Durham, and here in Toledo is not simply a dispute about aesthetics or technological convenience; it reflects deeper questions about community, identity, and the value we place on human creativity. While AI can generate polished images in seconds, it cannot replicate the lived experiences, local knowledge, and personal relationships that shape the work of designers, illustrators, and brewers who root their craft in place. Whether AI ultimately becomes a tool that supports creatives or a force that undermines them will depend on choices made by breweries, consumers, and communities alike. For now, the pushback from people like Simon Hubbard—and the commitments of artists and brewers who champion local collaboration—offer an important reminder that supporting human creativity is also an investment in the cultural and economic vitality of the place we call home.

Further Reading:

Shortridge, James. 1996. Keeping tabs on Kansas: reflections on regionally based field studyJournal of Cultural Geography, Volume 16, number 1, pages 5-16.

Note: The image on the header of this blog entry is AI-generated. I thought it would be interesting to ask AI to produce an image protesting itself.

Welcome to Wrexham (Lager)

I have a deep passion for football—known as soccer here in the United States. Most of that passion is devoted to Glasgow Celtic, the Scottish club I’ve supported avidly since I was seven years old. Thanks to the internet and cable television, I can keep up not only with my team but with the sport more broadly. Beyond watching matches, I occasionally enjoy football documentaries. Two of my favorites are Sunderland ’Til I Die and Welcome to Wrexham. Both series chronicle the challenges faced by the men’s teams of Sunderland and Wrexham as they strive to win enough points to climb the tiers of English football. Interestingly, although Wrexham is based in Wales, its team competes in the English Football League—a legacy of the early 20th century when no Welsh league existed. As a result, Wrexham, along with Cardiff City, Newport County, and Swansea City, was invited to play in English League.

Of the two documentaries, Welcome to Wrexham has received the most publicity. This is in large thanks to the fact that, back in 2021 actors Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney became the co-owners of the club. Both have a starring role in Welcome to Wrexham. The takeover has been hugely successful and over a four-year period (2021-2025) the club gained three successive promotions and moved from the fifth to the second tier of the English football pyramid.

But it’s not just the local football team that Reynolds and McElhenney invested in. They also, along with the Allyn family of Skaneateles, NY, became majority co-owners of a local brewery, Wrexham Lager Beer Co., in 2024. It is a brewery with an interesting history. It was founded In 1882 by two German Immigrants, Ivan Levinstein and Otto Isler. During the 1900s, Wrexham Lager was exported worldwide, finding markets in places as far away as Australia, India, and the Americas. Such was the popularity of Wrexham Lager during the early 20th century that it was available to passengers on the ill-fated Titanic.

In 2000, due to declining demand, the brewery closed its doors. The then owners of the brewery, Carlsberg-Tetley, continued to produce the Lager at a brewery in Blackburn in England. They did so until 2002 when production ceased completely. In 2011, a local family, the Roberts, decided to revive the brand and brew Wrexham Lager in a newly constructed microbrewery. Along with Reynolds, McElhenny, and the Allyn family, the Roberts remain co-owners of the brewery.

Long before Reynolds’s and McElhenney invested in either the football club or the brewery there was a strong connection between the club’s fans and Wrexham Lager. It was, indeed, a staple brew for many Wrexham fans, so much so that the Lager got its own chant. To the tune of the Welsh hymn Bread of Heaven, the chant goes:

Wrexham Lager, Wrexham Lager

Feed me ’til I want no more (want no more),

Feed me ’til I want no more..

As both a football fan and a beer enthusiast, I was familiar with Wrexham Lager and its connection to the local football club—though I had never actually tasted it. That changed a few weeks ago. While browsing the beer section of the dinner menu at a local restaurant, I noticed Wrexham Lager listed among the offerings. At $9 a can, it was pricier than the other craft beers on the menu—likely due in part to the fact that it had traveled all the way from Wrexham to Toledo. Or so I thought.

As I examined the can (as I do with most canned beers that I have for the first time) I noticed that the beer inside was not brewed in Wrexham, but in Normal, IL at Destihl Brewery. Curious about Destihl I visited their website. Established in 2007, in addition to their own line of beers Destihl brew a number of what they call ‘partner beers’. Included in these is Wrexham Lager.

I have to admit, I was a little disappointed by this discovery. One of the things I value most about craft beer is its local character—the way it reflects and connects to a specific place. This sense of place has been widely studied by several geographers, including Scott Taylor Jr. and Robin DiPietro of the University of Houston and the University of South Carolina-Columbia, respectively. In their work, they explore the concept of place-based brands—brands that are defined by their geographic origin and cannot be authentically reproduced elsewhere because of the unique qualities tied to that location.

With respect to Wrexham Lager, the question is simple – can Wrexham Lager be brewed anywhere except Wrexham. Martyn Jones who represented the people of Wrexham as a member of the British Parliament between 1987 and 2010 doesn’t think so. He put it very simply “It isn’t Wrexham Lager if it isn’t brewed in Wrexham.” Before becoming a Member of Parliament, Jones worked in the Wrexham Lager Brewery. In 2020 (when the Lager was being brewed in Blackburn) Jones spearheaded a campaign to bring production of the famous Lager back to Wrexham.

The statement by Martyn Jones gets right to the heart of the question of authenticity. Is the Wrexham Lager that is brewed in Illinois authentic? One might argue that as long as the Lager is brewed using the same ingredients and the same recipe then what’s the big deal? Others, such as Martyn Jones, would suggest otherwise and would argue that where Wrexham Lager is brewed is a big deal.

This is not the first time the issue has been raised with respect to the brewing industry. Back in 2016, a judge found in favor of the plaintiff in a class action lawsuit filed against Anheuser-Busch (A-B). The lawsuit revolved around Beck’s beer. While ostensibly a German beer, Beck’s was owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev. In addition to being brewed in Bremen Germany, since 2012 Beck’s had been brewed in St. Louis, MO. The lawsuit alleged that Anheuser-Busch “misrepresented to consumers that Beck’s Beer is brewed in and imported from Germany”. Plaintiffs alleged “that these beers are in fact domestically brewed but priced as a premium imported beer”.

In a case study of a Scottish craft brewery, David Brown of Heriot-Watt University (UK) examines the challenges the owner faces as he considers expanding beer distribution into England and Wales. Many of the brewery’s products feature names inspired by local landmarks and Scottish idioms, with labels referencing regional issues—such as a nearby nudist colony. As they enter more geographically distant markets, a key question arises: should these local references remain unchanged, or be adapted to make the brand more accessible and transparent to non-local consumers? Selling a beer with a strong sense of place beyond its home region can presents some unique branding challenges.

Wrexham Lager is brewed at Destihl in Normal, IL

The story of Wrexham Lager—and its connection to football, community, and identity—highlights a broader debate about authenticity in an increasingly globalized world. While recipes and branding can travel, the sense of place that defines a product is harder to replicate. For some, brewing Wrexham Lager in Illinois may seem inconsequential, but for others, like Martyn Jones, it strikes at the heart of what makes the beer unique. This tension between tradition and practicality is not new; it echoes similar controversies across the brewing industry, where geographic origin remains a powerful marker of authenticity. Ultimately, whether in football or beer, place matters—not just as a backdrop, but as an integral part of the story we tell and the experiences we value.

Further Reading:

Brown, David M. 2023. Managing neolocalism outside the locale in real ale and craft beer entrepreneurship: The case of Ben Lui Brewery. The International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Innovation.

Taylor, Scott, Jr and Robin DiPietro. 2020. Assessing consumer perceptions of neolocalism: Making a case for microbreweries as place-based brands. Cornell Hospitality Quarterly, Volume 61, Numbr 2, Pages 183–198.

Remembering the Edmund Fitzgerald

Fifty years ago this month the SS Edmund Fitzgerald, a Great Lakes freighter, sank in a violent storm in Lake Superior. None of the twenty-nine crew members survived. At 13,632 tons she was, and still is, the largest ship to have sunk in the Great Lakes. Eleven days before her sinking, during a routine inspection in Toledo, OH the Coast Guard found that some of the hatch covers that sealed the cargo area would not close properly. This, it appears, may have contributed to the Fitzgerald’s sinking. When it sank the Fitzgerald was carrying more than 26,000 tons of iron ore (in the form of taconite pellets) from Superior, WI to Detroit, MI – a journey it had made many times. Four of the crew crewmembers were from Toledo – Ernest M. McSorely (Captain), Eugene W. O’Brien (Wheelsman), William J. Spengler (Watchman), and Robert C. Rafferty (Steward/Cook).

Throughout history the Great Lakes has seen somewhere between an estimated 6,000 to 10,000 shipwrecks. Despite the large numbers, it is the sinking of the Fitzgerald that has remained front and center in the minds of the North American public (or at least those of us fortunate enough to live on or near the Great Lakes). To a large extent, we have the Canadian singer/songwriter Gordon Lightfoot to thank for that. In 1976, Lightfoot released the song “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald”. For the week of November 20, 1976 (a little over a year after the disaster) the song reached number 1 in Canada on and number 2 on Billboard Top 100 in the United States. According to Scott Bauer, writing for the Associated Press, “Without the song, ‘The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald’ may have been largely forgotten

While Gordon Lightfoot deserves kudos for keeping alive the memory of the Edmund Fitzgerald, a couple of Great Lakes breweries have also contributed. None more so than the aptly named Great Lakes Brewing Company in Cleveland, OH whose Edmund Fitzgerald Porter “is a bittersweet tribute to the legendary freighter’s fallen crew—taken too soon when the gales of November came early”. According the Dan Conway, co-founder of Great Lakes Brewing Company, “ the dark, rich colors and flavors of our porter seem to match the image of iron ore that the Fitz transported through the Great Lakes.” Not surprisingly, Great Lakes Brewing Company honored the 50th anniversary of the freighter’s sinking. On November 10 and 11, 2025 they hosted an event that included an educational presentation and a moment of silent reflection. For every pint of their Porter sold on those two days, the brewery donated one dollar to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum in Paradise, MI.

Edmund Fitzgerald Porter by Great Lakes Brewing Company in Cleveland, OH pays tribute to the freighter and the twenty-nine men who died when it sunk

Another brewery, Quenched and Tempered in Toledo, OH also partnered with a local museum, The National Museum of the Great Lakes, to remember and honor the Edmund Fitzgerald. To commemorate the event Brewery owner Ali Drozdowicz and brewmaster Alex Drozdowicz created a one-off beer – a Copper Ale. The beer was given the name “Toledo Express”, one of a number of nicknames given to the Fitzgerald.

Toledo Express Copper Ale brewed by Quenched & Tempered Brewing Company in Toledo, OH commemorates the Edmund Fitzgerald

Toledo brewery, Earnest Brew Works also brewed a special beer as a tribute to the crew of the Fitzgerald. The aptly named ‘Gales of November’ captures the brutal weather conditions that proved fatal to the freighter and its crew. Gales of November is a Blackberry Sour which clocks in at 7.5% ABV.

Gales of November, brewed by Earnest Brew Works in Toledo, OH is a tribute to the twenty-nine men who perished when the Edmund Fitzgerald sank

Naming beers after local landmarks, historical events, or notable figures exemplifies a concept known as neolocalism. Geographer Stephen M. Schnell of Kutztown University defines neolocalism as “the conscious attempt of individuals and groups to establish, rebuild, and cultivate local ties and identities.” In a separate paper co-authored with Joseph S. Reese of Edinboro University, Schnell and Reese argue that many craft breweries actively embrace neolocalism through various strategies—one of the most common being the selection of beer names that reflect connections to the local community. The three beers highlighted here, which commemorate an event deeply rooted in Great Lakes communities such as Cleveland and Toledo, serve as clear illustrations of this practice.

Further Reading:

Schnell, Stephen M. and Joseph S. Reese. 2003. Microbreweries as tools of local identity. Journal of Cultural Geography, Volume 22, Issue 1, Pages 45-69.

A Taste of Place

In 2009, Amy Trubek, published her book The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir“. Trubeks’ book is about food. In particular, it is about local food and its connection to place.

One of the concepts that Trubek discusses at some length in her book is that of terroir. You may be familiar with this concept, but if you are not, the Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines terroir as “the combination of factors including soil, climate, and sunlight that gives wine grapes their distinctive character”. While it is a concept most commonly used within the wine industry, it is being increasingly used in discussions taking place around the craft beer. For example, a number of scientific studies show that the same hop varietal grown in two different places will exhibit different taste and aroma characteristics. A study conducted by scientists at Oregon State University showed that “Cascade hops grown in Oregon were characterized by strong citrus, floral, fruity, herbal and resinous aroma. Cascade hops from Washington displayed more tropical and sweaty aroma”. These findings have been replicated in numerous other studies, including one conducted in Italy. The reasons for these differences are quite simple, different soils and micro-climates impact hops differently. As noted by the Italian researchers, “the differences found in the hops were reflected in the beers, which were clearly recognized as distinct by a sensory panel.” In short, hops have terroir.

Approximately, 95% of all hops harvested in the United States are grown in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) states od Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. The growth of craft breweries, however, has resulted in farmers outside of the PNW experimenting with hops as a crop. Their primary customers are local breweries. Hops are now grown in 30+ states outside the PNW. This provides beer drinkers in states such as California, Michigan, and Ohio to taste beer with locally grown hops. And, because of terroir, one can make the case that they are experiencing a s taste of place.

But hops are not the only local crop being used in the brewing of craft beer. Other locally sourced crops are also commonly used. Earlier this spring, I enjoyed a basil honey ale at one of my local breweries, Earnest Brew Works, whose ingredients included locally grown basil. Other examples from across the country abound. Island Brewing Company in Carpinteria, CA brew an avocado honey ale using locally sourced avocados, while Cape May Brewing Company of Cape May, NJ use local beach plums in the making of their Beach Plum IPA.

This basil honey ale from Earnest Brew Works in Toledo, OH included locally grown basil as one of its ingredients.

Some breweries also forage for local ingredients to include in their beer. Foraging simply means “searching for potable ingredients from one’s own property, nearby park or forest, or even neighbors’ backyards” and harvesting these ingredients by hand. For example, Matt Hofmann, the founder of Sahale Ale Works in Grafton, WI brewed a farmhouse ale that included dandelion heads from a nearby nature preserve. In 2015, Bob Kunz, the owner of Highland Park Brewery in Los Angeles, CA produced a Saison using fruits and herbs (lemongrass, sour flower and a half-dozen varieties of lemons and limes) foraged from the back yards of both him and his neighbors. The Saison is appropriately called Yard Beer.

On a recent trip to Italy, I had an opportunity to enjoy another taste of place. I was attending a local food and beer festival in the small town of Lecce nei Marsi (population 1,694) in Italy’s Abruzzo region. One of the local beers available at the festival was an English Browm Ale whose ingredients included the faggiola – beech nuts from local beech trees. The beer, Moricento, is brewed by Beer Park Brewery. What makes Moricento special, at least in my eyes, is that the beech nuts come from ancient beech trees that are located in a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Beechnuts are an ingredient in Moricento English Brown Ale
Moricento – a beer whose ingredients include beech nuts

Lecce nei Marsi is located in the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park. The park covers 50,000 hectares, 60% of which is covered by beech forests. As noted above, the beech forests in the park are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is a somewhat an unusual World Heritage site, as it is part of a chain of beech forests that are spread across eighteen European countries. According to UNESCO, these “ancient beech forests are primeval beech forests that have changed very little over the centuries, because they are preserved in areas that are difficult to reach and because beech trees easily adapt to diverse climatic and geographical conditions. Among the various specimens, there are beech trees over 500 years old”. Thus, when you taste Moricento, you might argue that not only are you sampling a taste of place, but perhaps also a taste of the region’s natural history.

The ancient beech forests of Europe (Source: UNESCO)
Enjoying a taste of Moricento beer at the local food and beer festival in Lecce nei Marse

Further Reading

Carbone, Kayta, Giulia Bianchi, Maurizio Petrozziello, Federica Bonello, Valentina Macchioni, Barbara Parisse, Flora De Natale, Roberta Alila, and Maria Carla Cravero. 2021. Tasting terroir through craft beer: Quality and sensory assessment of cascade hops grown in central Italy and derived monovarietal beers. Foods, Volume 10, Issue 9.

My Dogfish Head T-Shirt

In my last blog entry, I examined my collection of fifteen brewery t-shirts and looked at where they were made. Of the fifteen, three were made in the United States and twelve were made in Latin America. The t-shirts made in the United States were from Earnest Brew Works in Toledo, OH, Rhinegeist Brewery in Cincinnati, OH, and Dogfish Head in Milton, DE. As I did more research into the companies that manufactured these particular t-shirts, it was the one from Dogfish Head that really caught my attention.

Dogfish Head is a brewery that I really admire. Established in Rehoboth Beach, DE in 1995, it was, at that time, America’s smallest commercial brewpub. Under the leadership of its charismatic, Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head has went from strength to strength, and by 2017 was the twelfth largest craft brewery in the United States. Over the last two decades, Calagione and Dogfish Head have been at the forefront of creativity and innovation. It was the first brewery to produce a continuously hopped IPA (their iconic 90 Minute IPA). It’s Ancient Ales Program has seen it work with molecular archeologist Dr. Patrick McGovern to recreate and reproduce beers from ancient Turkey, China, Egypt, and a number of far away places and epochs. And just this week, Dogfish Head realeased Slighty Mighty, a low calorie IPA that rivals Michelob Ultra for calories and carbs (95 calories and 3.5 carbs), and “doesn’t taste like seltzer water”.

I have never visited Dogfish Head’s flagship brewery, which is located in Milton, DE, but my oldest daughter has. And when she did, she bought me the aforementioned t-shirt. The t-shirt is manufactured by TS Designs, who are based in Burlington, NC. According to the company’s website, its t-shirts “are made from conventionally grown North Carolina cotton and you can track them through the entire supply chain back to the farmer. You can even meet the farmer yourself during our annual Cotton Harvest Tour.”

My Dogfish Head t-shirt uses 100% North Carolina grown cotton

Tracking my Dogfish Head t-shirt through the entire supply chain back to the farmer sounded intriguing – it certainly appealed to the economic geographer in me. According to theTS Designs website, tracking my t-shirt’s supply chain required going to the website whereyourclothing.com, where it states:

“not only are all of our t-shirts made entirely in the United States, they have completely transparent supply chains. And when we say completely transparent, we mean it! Not only do we give you the location, but a name, photo, address, and even phone number for each member of the supply chain, from dirt to shirt.”

To learn about the supply chain in my Dogfish Head t-shirt, it was simply a case of entering a tracking code. Tracking codes are either printed on the neck label or derived from the colors of the thread sown into the t-shirts arm hem and tail hem. In the case of my Dogfish Head t-shirt, the hems of the sleeves and tail had colored thread sown into them –

Tracking codes for my Dogfish Head t-shirt were derived from the color of the thread inside the hem of the t-shirt’s sleeves and tail.

As I soon learned, my Dogfish Head t-shirt started its life on the cotton farm of Thurman Burleson & Sons Farm in Wadesboro, NC. From there is passed through the hands of eight other companies. These included a cotton gin, yarn spinners, fabric knitters, fabric finishers, and cutters/sewers, before ending up at the print and dye facility of TS Designs in Burlington. All ten of the plants involved in the making of my t-shirt are located in North Carolina and South Carolina. Information about each participant in my t-shirt’s supply chain is provided on the whereyourclothing.com website, and appears after you enter your t-shirt’s tracking information. You can read these descriptions below (for the Dogfish Head t-shirt I own), as well as view the map showing the location of each manufacturer who contributes to the final product.

All ten of the plants that played a part in making my Dogfish Head t-shirt are located in North Carolina

Learning about the supply chain of my Dogfish Head t-shirt was fun, interesting, and informative. I would not want to replicate this search for information for every piece of clothing that I own (even if it were possible). But it was, as I said, informative to do it for one t-shirt. I was only vaguely aware of the various steps involved in producing a t-shirt, and so this educated me on the t-shirt manufacturing process. As someone who teaches Economic Geography, I fully understand the economics behind sourcing t-shirts from cheap labor countries overseas. So I say kudos to Dogfish Head for purchasing and selling t-shirts whose provenance is one hundred percent American.

Made in Honduras

Craft breweries typically have strong connections with their local communities. These connections are manifest in a number of ways. The owners usually live in town. The brewery provides space for activities such as a local yoga club, and several times a year they brew a special beer, part of the profits of which are donated to local charitable causes. In discussing craft breweries, George Homewood, Norfolk, Virginia’s director of planning and community development, notes:

there is a different food truck outside nightly. Depending upon the brewery, there may be yoga on Sundays, trivia on Wednesdays, retro video games on Thursdays, and music on Saturdays as well as neighborhood block parties, a monthly pet adoption day or a free community meal.

Regardless of where we live, all of us know local breweries who support their communities in these types of way. Some breweries are so proud of their local community that they name beers after local landmarks, historical figures, or important events in the community’s past. A growing number of breweries are even trying to source more of their ingredients, particularly hops, from the local region. For some breweries, one of their major contributions to the community is simply to provide a gathering place for locals; a refuge of sorts where neighborhood residents can come, meet up with a few friends, and enjoy a couple of beers.

And craft beer drinkers seem to appreciate this commitment to local communities and are very happy to support the locally-owned brewery, rather than the faceless multinational corporation (e.g., AB InBev or Heineken). There’s even a name or this preference for the local – it’s called “neolocalism”. The geographer, Steven M. Schnell defines neolocalism as a “conscious attempt of individuals and groups to establish, rebuild, and cultivate local ties, local identities, and increasingly, local economies.” Writing specifically about craft breweries, Schnell and his co-author Joseph Reese, stated that craft breweries represent a desire on the part of increasing numbers of people to “reestablish connections with local communities, settings, and economies”.

There is no doubt that buying a locally brewed beer supports a local business. Advocates of purchasing locally produced food are quick to point out the economic, social, and environmental benefits of doing so – keeping more money in the local community, encouraging cultural diversity, preserving genetic diversity etc. On the other hand, economists Jason Winfred and Philip Watson point out buying local conflicts with Ricardo’s two hundred year old principle of comparative advantage. Of course, there is the whole issue of what constitutes “local”, a topic I discussed in a previous blog entry.

Many breweries are rightly proud of the contributions they make to their local communities. And on their websites, they are not hesitant to articulate their community commitment. Crazy Mountain Brewing Company of Denver, CO, for example, state that, “although beer is our passion, one of Crazy Mountain’s core values is our commitment to community involvement”. According to Fairport Brewing Company in Fairport, NY, “our commitment to the local community run deep”, while Roadhouse Brewery of Jackson Hole, WY is “committed to supporting the local community of Jackson Hole”.

I got to thinking about craft breweries and their connections to the local economies the other day, when I was putting away a t-shirt that my oldest daughter had gave me as a Christmas gift. It was a t-shirt from Boulevard Brewing Company in Kansas City, MO. My daughter had been to Boulevard recently, while visiting a friend in Kansas City. I visited Boulevard myself while attending a conference in Kansas City in June of last year. Anyway, as I picked up the t-shirt I looked at the label just inside the collar. I was curious as to where the t-shirt was made. The label said, “Made in Honduras”. That got me wondering – where were all my other brewery t-shirts made? How many were made in the United States? I took each of them from the closet and examined them. Here is what I found:

  • Bare Arms Brewing, Waco, TX – Nicaragua
  • Black Cloister Brewing Company, Toledo, OH – Nicaragua
  • Boulevard Brewing Company, Kansas City, MO – Honduras
  • Church Brew Works, Pittsburgh, PA – Nicaragua
  • Dogfish Head, Milton, DE – USA
  • Earnest Brew Works, Toledo, OH – USA
  • Elevator Brewing, Columbus, OH – Mexico
  • Grapevine Brewery, Grapevine, TX – Nicaragua
  • Kona Brewing Company, Kona, HI – Mexico
  • Lansing Brewing Company, Lansing, MI – Mexico
  • Market Garden Brewery, Cleveland, OH – Nicaragua
  • Maumee Bay Brewing Company, Toledo, OH – Nicaragua
  • Pike Brewing Company, Seattle, WA – Honduras
  • Rhinegeist Brewery, Cincinnati, OH – USA
  • Round Barn Brewery, Baroda, MI – Honduras

First off, I own fifteen t-shirts from breweries. I never knew that. Of the fifteen t-shirts, seven were made in Nicaragua, three in Mexico, three in the United States, and two in Honduras. Now I fully realize that my fifteen t-shirts do not constitute a scientifically valid sample, so I am not going to make any generalizations regarding the larger population of American breweries. Thinking scientifically, I thought that it might be interesting to have a control group. So, I randomly selected fifteen of my non-brewery t-shirts that I had purchased in the United States, and examined their labels. All of them were manufactured in Latin America – five in Mexico, four in Nicaragua, and three each in Honduras and El Salvador. These, albeit non-scientific, findings do hint at the possibility that American craft breweries may be more prone to purchase American made t-shirts than the average retailer.

My t-shirt from Church Brew Works in Pittsburgh, PA was made in Nicaragua

That most of the brewery t-shirts I own are made in Latin American countries did not surprise me. I teach this stuff in my Industrial Geography course at The University of Toledo. By and large, it comes down to labor costs. Manufacturing labor costs are significantly cheaper in Latin America than in the United States. For example, according to IVEMSA, a company that assists U.S. companies interested in establishing manufacturing facilities in Mexico, American manufacturers who locate in Mexico will pay 20-30% less in labor costs. Add to that a forty-eight hour work week (before requiring overtime pay) and the advantages of manufacturing in Mexico soon become apparent.

Three breweries in my non-scientific sample do sell t-shirts manufactured in the United States. They are Dogfish Head in Milton, DE, Earnest Brew Works in Toledo, OH, and Rhinegeist Brewery in Cincinnati, OH. The t-shirts sold by Earnest Brew Works and Rhinegeist Brewery are made by American Apparel, who are based in Los Angeles, CA. The company makes apparel in countries all over the world, including Bangladesh, Honduras, and the United States. Interestingly, one of American Apparel’s commitments is supporting the economies in which they are located. They do this by “using local suppliers for transportation, food services and raw materials and accessories for our production facilities such as dyes, buttons, zippers, boxes and office supplies.” The two American Apparel t-shirts I have were as I mentioned above, made in the USA. The components used to manufacture these two t-shirts came both from the United States and other countries

My t-shirt from Rhinegeist Brewery was made in the USA, with US and imported components

The t-shirt sold by Dogfish Head Brewery is manufactured by a company called TS Designs, who are based in Burlington, NC. Not only are TS Designs’ t-shirts made in North Carolina, the cotton that they are made from is grown in North Carolina.

My t-shirt from Dogfish Head Brewery

It would be nice if more breweries who sold t-shirts, baseball caps, wool hats and other souvenir items sourced those from inside the United States. If these items came from inside or close to the community in which they reside it would be another indication that the breweries are committed to supporting their local and/or regional economy.

Further Reading

Schnell, Steven M. and Joseph E. Reese. 2003. Microbreweries as tools of local identity.” Journal of Cultural Geography, Volume 21, number 1, pages 45–69.

Schnell, Steven M. 2013. Deliberate identities: becoming local in America in a global age. Journal of Cultural Geography, Volume 30, Issue 1, pages 55-89.


Craft Beer And Hops

This is my third blog entry that deals specifically with the topic of hops. You can read the other two entries here and here.

Hops are one of the four essential ingredients of beer – the other three are water, malted barley, and yeast. As such, hops serve a number of functions. First, they act as a bittering agent. Second, they contribute to a beer’s aroma. Third, they have preservative qualities. There are three basic types of hops – alpha, aroma, and dual purpose. The primary function of alpha hops is to provide a beer with its bitterness, while aroma hops, as the name suggests, contribute to the aroma of a beer. Dual purpose hops combine bittering  and aroma characteristics.

I’ve been reading quite a bit about hops recently, as well as looking at some data, trying to identify how demand for hops might be changing in response to the growing popularity of craft beer. This interest stems from a project funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The project, which includes colleagues from Rutgers University, Pennsylvania State University, and Simon Fraser University, is concerned with isolating the existence of what are termed agricultural clusters in the United States. As a piece of this much larger project, I have been looking at the impact that the growth of craft beer has had on the hops industry. In my research, I believe that I have identified three major impacts:

  • An overall incease in demand for hops
  • Demand for a greater diversity of hop varieties
  • The geographic expansion of hop production, out of the industry’s Pacific Northwest core.

Let me now examine each of these in turn.

Incresed Demand for Hops

Not surprisingly, the volume of hops produced and used in a given year varies. A number of factors impacts these volumes, including weather conditions and fluctuations in demand from breweries. The chart below shows the number of pounds of hops held by growers, dealers, and brewers on March 1, for each year between 1948 and 2018. What is particularly noticeable about this graph is the sharp increase in hop stocks held by these three groups, starting in 2011. This increase corresponds quite nicely with the significant increase in the number of craft breweries that started around the same time (see second chart).

So why might more craft breweries result in an increased demand for hops? Well, a major reason is that many of the styles of beer brewed by craft breweries use more hops than the beers produced by macro-brewers such as Anheuser-Busch. A typical craft beer (if there is indeed such a thing) contains up to five times more hops than a macro beer. The first chart below shows the number of pounds of hops used to produce a keg of different styles of beer. Lagers and pilsners, the most common type of beer produced by macro-brewers, use 0.19 and 0.31 pounds of hops per keg respectively. All of the other styles of beer shown (except Ambers and Hefeweizen) use more hops. For example, IPAs use a pound of hops per keg, while Imperial Stouts  and Imperial IPAs use 0.87 and 3.8 pounds per keg respectively. As the second chart below shows, IPAs (which tend to use a lot of hops) represent over twenty-five percent of the American craft beer market.

Source: USAHops

Demand for Greater Diversity of Hop Varieties

Another feature of craft breweries is that they tend to use a greater variety of different types of hops than macro-breweries. As noted above, there are three basic types of hop – alpha, aromatic, and dual purpose. Macro-brewers, such as Anheuser-Busch, use primarily alpha hops when brewing beers such as Budweiser. Craft brewers, in contrast, use larger amounts of aroma and dual purpose hops. For example, an examination  of types of hops harvested in the state of Washington (the country’s leading hop producer) in 2007, shows that 73.2% of the harvested acreage were alpha hops. By 2017, alpha hops accounted for only 26% of the harvested acreage in the state. In contrast, aroma and dual purpose hops accounted for 40% and 25.9% of Washington hops in 2017, respectively (the numbers do not add up to 100% here because data disclosure rules meant that there were some hops that could not be placed in one of the three categories). This represents a fundamental shift in hop production, which reflects a fundamental shift in demand.

Another way that I analyzed the hop data was to examine what I term the Four Hop Concentration Ratio. This is a simple number that indicates the percentage of hop production accounted for by the top four hop varieties. Again, I looked at data from the state of Washington. In 2007, the top four varieties accounted 71.1% of hops harvested in Washington. In 2017, the top four varieties accounted for only 39.1%. These numbers suggest that Washington farmers were growing a greater variety of different types of hop in 2017, than in 2007. When I examined the top four hop varieties in each of the two years, I noticed another important shift. In 2007, the top four hops harvested in Washington were Zeus, Columbus/Tomahwak,  Willamette, and Galena. Three of these four (Zeus, Columbus/Tomahawk, and Galena) are alpha hops. Only Willamette are aroma hops. In 2017, the top four hops harvested in Washington were Cascade, Centennial, Simcoe, and Citra. None of these are alpha hops. Cascade and Citra are aroma hops, while Centennial and Simcoe are dual purpose.

The demand for diversity in hops reflects the diversity of beer styles and flavors/aromas that craft brewers produce. Different styles of beer require different combinations of different hop varieties. Even within the same style (e.g. IPA) individual brewers will combine different hop varieties as they seek to attain a particular flavor profile. Particular hop varieties are suited for Brewing specific styles of beer. For example, Azacca hops, which are alpha hops and impart notes of citrus, mango, and pineapple are ideal for pale ales and IPAs.  Willamette, in contrast, are aroma hops that have floral, fruity, and herbal notes and are most commonly used in pale ales, bitters, and stouts. And of course, in the hands of a creative and innovative brewer, who knows what hop varieties will be combined with what other hop varieties, to generate exciting tastes and aromas. Craft breweries tend to be quite open in revealing the hop varieties that they use in a particular beer. In fact, displaying the hop varieties used in a particular brew, on the can or bottle, is not uncommon. My oldest daughter bought me a variety pack of beer for my birthday last month. Two of the beers were from  Platform Beer Company in Columbus, OH. One, Chasing the Horizon, was a Black New England IPA, while the other, Seeing Sounds, was a small batch IPA. On the cans were the hops used in the brewing of each beer. In the case of Chasing the Horizon, four hop varieties were used – Callista (aroma), Simcoe (dual purpose), Eukanot (aroma), and Mosain (aroma) were used. For Seeing the Sounds, the hops were Galena (alpha), El Dorado (dual purpose), Citra (aroma), and Centennial (dual purpose).

Platform Beer Company cans displays the hops used in each beer

Geographic Expansion of Hop Production 

A final trend that I have noted in my research on hops is the geographic expansion of hop production. The Pacific Northwest states of Washington, Oregon, and Idaho represent the heartland of American hop production. In 2017, these three states accounted for 95.5% of the acres of hops harvested in the United States. As few years earlier, in 2014, the three Pacific Northwest states had accounted for 97.7% of the acres of hops harvested. Gradually, in recent years, farmers in states outside of the Pacific Northwest have started to grow hops. Hops are now grown in twenty-nine states across the country. After, Washington, Oregon, and Idaho, the top three states for hop production are MichiganNew York , and Colorado. The map below shows hop growing States in 2017. Washington, Oregon, and Idaho are in red, and the orange states are the other states growing hops. The expansion of hop production outside of its core states is driven by demand from some craft brewers for locally-grown hops. At the same time, farmers see an opportunity to expand and diversify their portfolio of crops.

States Growing Hops in 2017

So, it appears that the increasing popularity of craft beer is changing the hop industry. Not only is there a demand for more hops, but there is a demand for a greater diversity of hop varieties. In particular, there is an increased demand for aroma and dual purpose hops, which, together, are now more popular than alpha hops. Finally, production of hops is increasing outside of the Pacific Northwest, as more brewers demand locally-grown hops.

Further Reading:

Schönberger, C. and T. Kostelecky. 2011. 125th Anniversary Review: The Role of Hops in Brewing. Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 117, Number 3, pages 259-267.

 

 

How Many Breweries?

Every now and then, I come across a headline that raises the question as to whether we are reaching saturation point with respect to the number of craft breweries that we have in the United States. Very often, the question is asked with regard to a particular Continue reading How Many Breweries?