Tag Archives: Wisconsin

Drink Wisconsibly

A few days ago, I was going through some of my “posts in progress” — drafts I had started but never quite finished. They’re all in different stages of completion. Some may eventually be published, while others will probably never see the light of day.

One draft I stumbled across was titled “Drink Wisconsibly.” To my surprise, it was actually finished — just never published. I have no idea why. I wrote it back in the summer of 2024.

So, here it is: “Drink Wisconsibly.” Enjoy.

Two years ago at Christmas, my oldest daughter and her husband gave me a white T-shirt. Across the front was an outline of the state of Wisconsin with the words Drink Wisconsibly splashed across it. It’s a clever twist on the familiar “Drink Responsibly” tagline from TV commercials, with a nod to the great state of Wisconsin.

If T-shirts aren’t your style the Drink Wisconsibly website offers plenty of other options — ball caps, sweatshirts, beer mittens, lip balm, and more — all featuring the same logo. The site proudly describes Drink Wisconsibly as “Wisconsin’s preeminent lifestyle brand”.

Enjoying a beer wearing my Drink Wisconsibly t-shirt

Wisconsin has long shared a deep and storied connection with beer and the brewing industry. Brewing began in the state in the 1830s, and it didn’t take long for it to become woven into everyday life. According to the Wisconsin Historical Society, during the latter half of the 19th century, “nearly every community had at least one operating brewery,” and breweries were “as much a part of Wisconsin communities as churches and schools.”

By the start of the Civil War in 1861, Wisconsin was home to nearly 160 breweries. That number continued to climb, surpassing 300 by the 1890s.

The remarkable growth of the state’s brewing industry in the 19th century was closely tied to the influx of German immigrants who settled across Wisconsin. They brought with them a deep appreciation for beer — especially lager — along with the skills and expertise needed to brew it. In fact, by the late 19th century, German immigrants dominated the American brewing industry. By 1880, 80.5% of brewers in the United States were either German immigrants or the sons of German immigrants.

According to Mark Louden, Director of the Max Kade Institute for German-American Studies at the University of Wisconsin–Madison, many German immigrants were drawn to Wisconsin by the abundant supply of affordable farmland. By 1900, 34 percent of the state’s population was of German ancestry.

Today, that influence remains strong: 40.5 percent of Wisconsinites claim German heritage. In several counties across the state, more than half of residents trace their ancestry to Germany (see map below).

Several breweries that achieved iconic status among American beer drinkers were founded in Wisconsin — particularly in Milwaukee. Pabst Brewing Company was established in 1844, followed by Jos. A. Schlitz Brewing Company in 1848, and Miller Brewing Company in 1855.

I should add that Old Milwaukee — brewed by Schlitz — was my beer of choice during my doctoral student days at Arizona State University in the late 1980s (by then, the brand had been acquired by Schlitz Brewing Company of Detroit, Michigan).

By 1914, brewing had become Wisconsin’s fifth largest industry. Given this long and storied history of beer production, Dr. Robin Shepard of the University of Wisconsin–Madison has suggested that the state may be “on a par with other worldly recognized brewing areas such as Bavaria, the Czech Republic and Belgium“.

In addition to beer, Wisconsin was also a significant producer of hops between 1840 and 1910, with production peaking at five million pounds in 1860.

As in many other states, Wisconsin was home to a strong and active temperance movement. During the latter half of the 19th century, lawmakers passed numerous measures aimed at curbing excessive drinking. For instance, an 1849 law held tavern owners “responsible for any costs associated with supporting drunkards”, reflecting growing concern about alcohol’s social impact.

The advent of Prohibition (1920–1933) posed serious challenges for Wisconsin’s breweries. Many were forced to close their doors permanently, while others managed to survive by pivoting to alternative products such as soft drinks, ice cream, and cheese. For ordinary citizens, bootlegging and homebrewing became key sources of beer during those dry years.

There is little doubt that Wisconsinites love their beer. One writer describes Milwaukee’s relationship with beer as a “liquid romance”, observing that “drinking infiltrates almost every social activity.” Another points to the state’s “enduring love of dairy, beer and sausage”, neatly capturing a defining trio of Wisconsin culture.

That affection is woven into the state’s identity. Wisconsin’s only Major League Baseball team, the Milwaukee Brewers, proudly carries the brewing tradition in its name. Milwaukee is also home to the Museum of Beer and Brewing, celebrating the city’s rich brewing heritage.

Today, Wisconsin boasts a thriving craft beer scene, with 266 breweries across the state. In 2023, it ranked 6th in the nation for the number of breweries per 100,000 adults of legal drinking age — further proof that the state’s love affair with beer is alive and well.

According to data from County Health Rankings & Roadmaps, reported by 24/7 Wall St. in 2022, Wisconsin was ranked the drunkest state in America, with 25.2 percent of adult residents reporting excessive drinking. The same dataset revealed that six of the ten drunkest cities in the country were located in Wisconsin — with Appleton claiming the number one spot.

A 2019 report from the University of Wisconsin Population Health Institute found that, across every age group, Wisconsin residents exceeded the national average for binge drinking. The study defined binge drinking as consuming five or more drinks per occasion for men and four or more for women.

Among those who engage in binge drinking, Wisconsinites average 4.1 binge drinking episodes per month — roughly once a week.

It is worth noting that, in terms of per capita alcohol consumption, Wisconsin ranks 8th among the 50 states and the District of Columbia (with New Hampshire holding the top spot). However, when it comes to the rate of excessive drinking, Wisconsin ranks first.

Excessive drinking, unfortunately, contributes to alcohol-related deaths. The graph below illustrates that the total number of alcohol-induced deaths in Wisconsin (excluding automobile accidents) rose steadily from 1999 to 2021.

Source: WisconsinWatch.org.

I, along with other academics, have written about the benefits of moderate alcohol consumption – specially in social settings—while also cautioning against the dangers of excessDrink Wisconsibly is a brilliantly clever twist on the familiar advice to Drink Responsibly.

Wisconsin boasts a rich brewing history and a thriving community of creative modern craft breweries. So why not do both? Let’s drink Wisconsibly—savoring the state’s fantastic beers—while also drinking responsibly, enjoying them in moderation with friends. In other words: Drink Wisconsibly, Responsibly.

Wisconsin Hop Seminar

I was in Hillsboro, WI last month.. I was there to participate in the 10th Annual Wisconsin Hop Seminar. The seminar, which brings together craft brewers, hop growers, and university researchers was held at the Hillsboro Brewing Company. My role at the seminar was to give the keynote address on the impact of craft brewing on the American hop industry. Hops is a subject that I have written about in previous blog entries, which you can read here, here, and here.

Hillsboro is a ninety-minute drive north of Madison. I flew into Madison, where I spent the night, before driving with my colleague and University of Wisconsin-Madison professor, Steve Deller, to Hillsboro. Hillsboro is a town of just over 1,400 people, located in west-central Wisconsin. It is known as the “Czech capital” of Wisconsin. While the earliest immigrants arriving in Hillsboro came from Germany, the Czechs started to arrive in the mid-1800s. Attracted by a landscape that reminded them of home, the Czechs brought with them their culture, food, and traditions. Today, the town’s Czech heritage is celebrated with the annual Cesky Den Festival.

Hillsboro Brewing Company is owned by the husband and wife team of Snapper and Kim Verbsky. Hillsboro is a relatively new brewery, only being established in 2014. In 2018, the brewery’s success (production went from ~350 barrels in 2017 to ~1,000 barrels in 2018) meant that it had to relocate to a larger facility and it is now housed in a 28,000 square foot building, that was formerly home to a Carnation Milk plant. This is where the hop seminar took place.

I must admit I was impressed with what Kim and Snapper were doing with their new brewing facility. It is a two-level building. The upper level is in the process of being renovated to house an event space. Wedding receptions will be a primary target market for this space. As I walked around the soon-to-be event space, I thought about the fact that there are only a little over 1,400 folks who live in town. This is clearly a space designed to attract out-of-towners. That thought also made me consider the brewery’s capacity to attract beer tourists.

The upper level of Hillsboro Brewery is being renovated and, when complete, will be rented out as event space.

Brewing occurs on the ground level of the brewery. Hillsboro produced approximately a thousand barrels of beer in 2018. It has the space to grow its brewing capacity, should the need arise. What particularly impressed me was that the owners clearly had respect for their building’s history. On display, there is a collage with old newspaper articles and photographs highlighting the building’s former life as a Carnation milk facility. I like it when brewery owners have an appreciation for and celebrate their building’s history. At Hillsboro, they also brew a beer that recognizes the building’s heritage. Contented Cow is a Milk Stout. In 1907, the founder of Carnation, E. A. Stuart introduced the phrase, “Carnation condensed milk, the milk from contented cows.” I sampled Contented Cow while at Hillsboro, and have to say that I really enjoyed it.

Collage highlighting the building’s history as a Carnation milk facility
A photograph of the building when it was a milk facility

There were approximately fifty in attendance at the seminar. The vast majority were hop farmers. There were a couple of brewers in attendance, including Dan Carey, co-owner and brewmaster of the legendary New Glarus Brewing Company. Dan was also one of the seminar’s speakers. My presentation focused on how the growth of craft brewing was impacting the hop industry. Among other things, craft breweries have created a demand for locally-grown hops.

The Program for the 10th Annual Wisconsin Hop Seminar
My presentation at the Wisconsin Hop Seminar

In preparing for my presentation I discovered quite a few things about the Wisconsin hop industry, including its history. During the second half of the eighteen-century, Wisconsin emerged as a major center of hop production. Production peaked in 1870, when the state produced approximately five million pounds of hops (Figure 1). The center of Wisconsin’s hop production was Sauk County, in the southwestern part of the state. I passed through Sauk County on the drive from Madison to Hillsboro. Hops first started to be grown in Sauk County in 1842. The rainfall and good drainage made Sauk County and ideal location for growing hops. Wisconsin’s reign as an important center of hop production did not last long, however. By 1880, annual production in the state had decreased to two million pounds. Production continued to fall and by the turn of the century very few hops were grown in the state (Figure 1).

Source: Rumney, 1997/98
Source: Rumney, 1997/98

In recent years hop farming has returned to Wisconsin. Most of the demand for Wisconsin hops come from Wisconsin craft breweries. There are over one hundred and sixty craft breweries in the state, and a growing number of them are using Wisconsin grown hops as an ingredient in some of their beers. As noted by Erika Janik in an article in Edible Milwaukee, “interest in local ingredients for local craft beer is driving a resurgence in the cultivation of hops and barley for brewing in Wisconsin.” According to the Hop Growers of America, in 2018 there were 297 acres of hops harvested in Wisconsin. This placed Wisconsin sixth in the country, behind Washington, Idaho, Oregon, Michigan, and New York. There are a lot of challenges associated with growing hops outside of the Pacific Northwest. There are the initial start-up costs, which can run ~$10,000 per acre. In addition, there are harvesting and post-harvesting processing costs; the latter include the costs of drying, pelletizing, storage etc. For small hop farms, as most start-ups are, achieving critical economies of scale is close to impossible. This make it difficult to compete on price with growers from the Pacific Northwest, particularly when it comes to the more common varieties of hops. Hop farmers in states such as Wisconsin have to figure out which hops will give them a competitive edge. In the long-term this might mean developing hop strains that are unique to the region, or by leveraging the concept of terroir; the idea that local Wisconsin hops provide unique flavors and aromas that are influenced by local soil and climate. Wisconsin hop growers may also be able to capitalize on the geographic proximity they enjoy viz-viz Wisconsin breweries – this proximity allows breweries to receive whole-cone hops that are delivered within hours of being harvested. Upon arrival at the brewery, these so-called ‘wet hops’ can be incorporated immediately into the brewing process. Wet-hop beers allow you to experience the true hop flavor the hop and have been described as “mellow, delicate, and freshly vibrant”. By definition, wet-hop beers are only available during the harvest season, which generally falls in August and September.

The hop farmers that I met and chatted with in Hillsboro were an impressive group. It is clear that they are passionate about hops. All are new to the industry, but are keen to learn, and are determined to become successful hop farmers.

Further Reading:

Rumnay, Thomas H. 1997/98. Hops cultivation in Wisconsin: A nineteenth century interlude, The Wisconsin Geographer, Volume 13-14, Pages 49-54.